Most of what a house spends energy on is heat, cold and hot water, and a battery does not touch any of it. Where your money actually goes, what to fix first, and how far off the meter you can honestly get.
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Where the money goes and the order to fix it. Seal, store, then make.
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How low the bill can honestly go, and what each step toward zero costs.
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Both books plus The Build Book, which is not sold on its own.
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The bill arrives in kilowatt-hours, so every fix gets sold to you in kilowatt-hours too. But the kilowatt-hour that keeps a room warm and the one that runs a laptop cost the same to buy and nothing like the same to replace.
Water holds more heat per pound than nearly anything you can buy by the gallon, and it does not wear out with cycles. A used food-grade tote costs about sixty dollars and holds roughly twenty-seven kilowatt-hours of heat or cold across a forty-degree swing. That will not run your lights, and the book says so on the first page. It will do the half of your bill a battery never touches.
Take a typical month of power and fuel and pull it apart by what the money is doing. This is the arithmetic a utility statement is built to keep you from running.
Illustrative, split the way a typical American house spends energy. A battery stores electricity you already bought at retail; it does not reduce a single line above. Chapter one of the Manual walks this same breakdown with blank columns, so you run it on your own bill and your own rate instead of on my example.
Four pages pulled straight out of the files you will download. Every method is written the same way, with the saving, the failure case, the thing to check first and the idea in plain words.
Manual, p.14 — payback order
Manual, p.27 — cost per kWh stored
Off the Meter, p.23 — batteries compared
Build Book, p.15 — a build sheet
Every number carries its source or its arithmetic, and where a figure is an estimate it is called one on the page.
One sheet per build: the parts list with prices, the tools, the steps in order, a checklist for the first test, and the output range to expect before you buy a single part. It is bundle-only because every sheet assumes you have read the sizing and safety chapters in the other two books.
Twenty-five builds in all across forty pages, from an afternoon's work to a weekend with a trench.
The dollars it puts back, at real prices, so you see the payback before you lift a finger.
The climate, the house or the situation where the popular version simply does not work.
The code, permit or measurement that decides it, so you do not pour money into something your county will not sign.
The idea underneath, explained the way a neighbour would, because a method you do not understand is one you will not finish.
Not "cheaper and almost as good." Each one beats the expensive fix at one specific thing, and the chart names the thing out loud.
| What you are told to buy | Price | What I would do | Price | What it beats it at |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Whole-home lithium wall | $10,000+ | 275-gallon water tote | ~$60 | Storing heat and cold — over half the bill, and the half a battery cannot touch. |
| A bigger air conditioner | $6,000+ | Attic sealing and insulation first | $300–900 | Shrinks the load, so the machine you eventually buy is a size smaller and runs less. |
| Standby generator | $5,000+ | Two critical circuits on a tested bank | $400–900 | Keeps the freezer, the well pump and the furnace fan alive, which is what an outage really costs you. |
| Solar quote sized off your annual bill | $25,000 | An array sized off the loads you run | a third to a half | You stop paying for the kilowatt-hours you were about to stop using anyway. |
| Tankless water heater | $3,000+ | Heat-pump unit, or a timer and a blanket | $40–1,600 | Cuts the second-largest line on the bill without repiping the house. |
| Space heaters in the cold rooms | $60 each, forever | Find the leak, then add mass | a caulk gun | A space heater treats the symptom every winter. The leak is fixed once. |
| New lithium for an off-grid shed | $1,200 | Tested used lead-acid, wired safely | $150–400 | Cycles you do not need, at a quarter of the price, with the testing done before money changes hands. |
| A smart thermostat as the whole plan | $250 | The same $250 in weatherstripping and a blower-door test | $250 | The thermostat schedules the loss. The seal removes it. |
Prices are ranges from ordinary suppliers in 2026, not the cheapest thing on the internet. Every row appears in the books with the full arithmetic, the conditions it needs to be true, and the case where the expensive answer really is the right one.
This is not a scandal I am breaking. It is the ordinary language of the trade, and everyone selling to you knows exactly how it lands.
Twenty-two of these have a page each, with the one question that settles it before you buy.
Not on faith. Here is where the number comes from, for one ordinary house that has done nothing yet.
A range, not a promise. Your climate, your rate and your house decide where you land inside it, and a house that is already tight will sit at the bottom. The point of the range is that the low end is still several times what all three books cost. The full calculation sits in chapter one of the Manual with blank columns, so you can run it on your own bill before you believe mine.
Through the same checkout the big stores use. I never see your card number, and there is nothing to cancel afterward.
On the next screen. Phone, tablet or computer, PDF and EPUB both, all of it at once.
The same link goes to your inbox, so you can open it again in the basement, or at the hardware store with your phone in one hand.
Anyone can list a hundred energy hacks. These also tell you plainly when a method will not work, so you do not spend money finding out.
Read it, work from it, and if it is not what you hoped, write to me and every dollar comes back. No forms and no awkward questions, and you keep the files either way. I would rather that than have you feel taken.
Already ordered and nothing turned up? Write to contact@eliasgriffith.com and I will send them straight over.
No. It only comes with the set, because every build sheet assumes you have read the sizing and safety chapters in the other two books. Handing out build steps without them is how people get hurt or waste money.
The Home Energy Manual, unless you already have a tight house and are specifically shopping for solar or storage. The Manual is the one that decides whether the money in Book Two is worth spending at all.
No. A video is one idea at a time and it stops when the runtime does. The books are the whole thing in order, cross-referenced, so you can open one in the basement and find the answer in a minute. A fair amount has never been on camera because it does not fit in twenty minutes.
Each method says where it fits. Sealing, load shifting and hot-water work pay off almost everywhere. Passive cooling, solar sizing and heat-pump economics change a great deal with latitude and humidity, and the books treat that honestly rather than assuming one typical house.
The sealing, load-shifting, standby and hot-water chapters need no structural change and are marked as such. The buried tank, the solar array and the earth tube need a house and land you own.
Most of it is weekend work explained step by step. Where a job genuinely needs a licensed electrician or plumber, the book names it rather than pretending otherwise, and every build sheet can be handed to a contractor to follow as written.
Yes. Nothing here assumes a background, and the highest-return jobs in either book are the cheapest and least physical ones.
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Chapter one of The Home Energy Manual, the one that splits your bill into six numbers, sent as a PDF. If it is not useful you have lost nothing, and you will know what the rest reads like.
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Nobody told you where to look, because the person whose job it is to tell you gets paid on the other number.
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